Tuesday, May 31, 2011

End of Week 1 in Kampala

May 29-31, Sunday-Tuesday 2011

I finally made it into the city yesterday and today. I had ventured to the two local super markets before, but those where only a few minutes walk away.

We walked south on Kira Rd, then in the Mulago neighborhood there is a roundabout and we took different roads each day so I could see the most. The bigger roads are paved, with grassy medians and sidewalks or dirt areas to walk on both sides. People drive on the left here, so it makes sense that the trucks look for European than American. I haven’t seen one semi but there are lorries everywhere as well as motorcycles whizzing by and breaking traffic rules to get ahead and the abundant matatus look almost like the VW vans from the 70’s.

Amidst all this bustle people walk to where they are going, some at very slow speeds while others seem in a hurry, some in suits or sweaters and here I am sweating in a t-shirt. Closer to the city you find markets which run parallel to the road and are unpaved with shanty-looking stands made of metal or wood in which hardware, food, electronics, clothes, and cellphone/internet airtime are sold. I almost walked into a hanging headless carcass while stepping out of a boda’s (motorcycle you hire like a taxi) path. In the city people have shoes, maps, books, and food for sale laid out on the sidewalks while other people stand holding watches, belts, or even dark suits which are held and rested on the shoulders of the sellers. Generally they don’t speak up to get attention as the flow of pedestrians goes by. All this is movement happens without traffic lights. There are a few, but mostly right of way around round-abouts controls the flow. Of course, on my first boda ride the driver (after Ginger told him it was my first time and to go easy) went the wrong way around the roundabout. I was so busy holding on in terror while simultaneously grinning like a fool at the wonderful breeze that I didn’t notice.

I’m still trying to understand what it means to be a white American woman here. The girls warned me that men would flock to me because here I am the exotic, prestigious Other. Also people on the streets will call out to you saying “Mzungo!” (which basically means white person) or “Hallo. How are you?” While this seems friendly enough at first, it can be overwhelming when it happens almost constantly. Many times it is vendors or boda drivers who are calling out to you so it is more about trying to sell you something than being friendly. Also some men will call us beautiful or say they love us as we walk by. At home I reciprocate when people I pass say hello and that is actually one of the things I missed while living in the North. But here Meagan and Ginger assure me it will get old quickly and to just ignore it. I’m trying to find my own balance of being friendly yet ignoring the negative, demanding calls and it reminds me of the vendors in the middle of the mall who say “Can I ask you something?” as you are trying to walk by.

Lastly we had some friends over, Richard and Moses, on Monday night. We all watched as Moses opened his gifts from his girlfriend Sonja while on Skype with her. It was adorable and then we had a good meal together as we talked. Moses had written an essay/article about the racial implications of people calling us Mzungo and made a good point, it would be outrageous in the States if someone went around yelling “Hey black woman” all the time.

We also talked about the political situation here and the Walk to Work protests which have been suppressed by the government. Now the protests are restricted to people making noise by banging pans, blaring music, and hooting (honking) their cars and bodas for 5 minutes everyday at 5pm. I listened yesterday and didn’t hear anything, but we live in the suburbs. The people stopped protesting by walking to work because the government passed a law saying anyone arrested for protesting would be denied bail for 6 months.

Weeks ago there were protests which were stopped by the government with tear gas, rubber bullets, and real bullets that were fired into crowds. There are still armored trucks around in case protests occur again and Ginger and Meagan said the police presence has increased a lot. The protests were happening because prices have risen across the board significantly; in some cases almost double what they were last year. Part of this is inflation that is beyond the national government’s control but other things like national fuel taxes are skyrocketing. Richard and Moses had different opinions of who was responsible for fixing things but both agreed that most people do not have enough to live off of while the elite are getting richer through corrupt practices. It was a very interesting an necessary conversation to have and Richard and Moses were well informed and obviously were engaged in the politics in a way that many people in my generation are not.

This coming Wednesday we are going on our first school observation of the season and I will see the SAS clinic Thursday. It will feel good to jump into work. My grad student tendencies mean I feel guilty for going to long with working! We have put up pictures from our first week in Kampala so check out the “Our Pictures” link on the right.

Take care all and thanks for being part of this with me through reading along,

NS

1 comment:

  1. Hey Nicole,

    I'm enjoying reading about your adventures! Some of your stories sound like a movie script. Like the instance on the plane: "Is there a doctor?" That will be a great memory to reflect back on and laugh. This experience is great not only for your anthropological sense (the sixth sense as I call it) but for your personal growth as well. I don't know very much about the politics in Uganda past 1989, so its interesting reading about the protests, indigenous opinion, etc. I can't wait for your next post!

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